iPhone 13 Screen Replacement Cost UK: What You'll Actually Pay in 2026

A replacement iPhone 13 screen costs £51.72 for the Hard OLED part — the only screen tier stocked for this model — when you buy the component yourself and fit it (or supply it to an independent repairer) rather than paying a shop's combined labour-and-part price. Across the rest of the range, an iPhone 13 Mini screen is £61.47, an iPhone 13 Pro screen is £43.68, and an iPhone 13 Pro Max screen is £54.41. Every screen in the iPhone 13 family sold here is genuine OLED — there's no budget LCD tier for this generation, unlike the iPhone 11 and 12 ranges. This article breaks down the full family pricing, why the Pro is actually the cheapest screen in the line-up, and links you straight to the correct part for your model.

How Much Does an iPhone 13 Screen Replacement Cost?

A note on the links: the iPhone 13 and iPhone 13 Pro screens sit on shared multi-model product pages (the base 13 page also lists iPhone 12 Pro Max/14 Pro/15 Pro variants; the 13 Pro page also lists iPhone 14/14 Plus/14 Pro variants). The links above are deep-linked to pre-select the correct iPhone 13 or iPhone 13 Pro variant automatically — you don't need to hunt through a dropdown.

Why Is the iPhone 13 Pro Screen Cheaper Than the Base iPhone 13?

This is the one figure in this table worth pausing on: at £43.68, the iPhone 13 Pro screen is the cheapest in the entire family — cheaper than the standard iPhone 13 (£51.72) and cheaper than the Pro Max (£54.41). That runs against the usual assumption that "Pro" means "pricier part." It doesn't, and there's no catch — it's simply current component sourcing cost for that specific panel, not a reflection of quality or spec. Both the 13 and 13 Pro screens are Hard OLED; the pricing difference comes down to supply and manufacturing cost for that particular panel, not the phone's position in Apple's line-up. If you're comparing quotes across models, don't assume the more expensive iPhone means the more expensive screen — check the actual part price.

Why Are All iPhone 13 Screens OLED? Is There a Cheaper LCD Option?

No, and it's worth being upfront about this: unlike the iPhone 11 and iPhone 12 ranges — where a budget Incell LCD tier sits alongside pricier OLED options — every iPhone 13 model was built by Apple with an OLED display from the factory, and every screen we stock for this generation reflects that. There is no LCD version of an iPhone 13 screen because Apple never fitted one. So you won't find a lower-cost LCD alternative here for any iPhone 13 model — the prices above already represent genuine OLED panels, not a premium upgrade over some cheaper baseline.

What's the Difference Between the Hard OLED and Soft OLED Pricing?

Three of the four iPhone 13 family screens we stock (13, 13 Mini, 13 Pro) are Hard OLED, and one (13 Pro Max) is Soft OLED. These are two different OLED panel constructions rather than a quality hierarchy in the way LCD-vs-OLED is — see the Hard OLED vs Soft OLED section further down this page if you want the full technical breakdown before you buy. For pricing purposes, the Pro Max's Soft OLED at £54.41 isn't a "premium tier" markup over the others — it's simply the panel type that model uses.

What Affects the Price of an iPhone 13 Screen Replacement?

Panel size and construction. The Mini's smaller footprint doesn't automatically make it the cheapest — at £61.47 it's actually the most expensive screen in the family, reflecting the cost of sourcing that specific panel rather than its physical size.

Part vs fitted repair. Buying the screen as a standalone part and fitting it yourself (or via an independent technician you supply the part to) is the cheapest route by a wide margin. A walk-in repair shop or manufacturer service bundles labour, diagnostics, and often a booking or service fee into one price, and that combined figure typically runs well above the part cost alone — you're paying for someone else's time on top of the component itself. If you're comfortable with small precision tools, buying the part directly is where the savings are; see the step-by-step guide further down this page for an honest look at what's involved.

Genuine vs aftermarket sourcing. Apple-authorised out-of-warranty screen repairs use Apple's own parts and service pricing, which sits well above independent part costs. Third-party aftermarket OLED parts, like the ones listed above, are tested and warrantied but priced independently of Apple's service structure.

Is It Cheaper to Buy the Part and Fit It Yourself?

Yes, in almost every case. Paying for a part only, at £43.68–£61.47 depending on model, avoids the labour charge that typically dominates a shop quote. The iPhone 13 does have one genuine complication worth knowing before you commit: it's more tightly sealed against water and dust than the iPhone 11 or 12, so a proper reseal with fresh adhesive matters more here than on older models. Our DIY guide covers that in detail, along with the full tool list and a realistic time estimate.

Why Buy From Supreme Phone Parts

• 100% tested before dispatch — every screen is checked for function before it leaves us, not just visually inspected.
• 12-month warranty — covers manufacturing defects on the part.
• Same-day UK dispatch — orders placed within the cut-off go out the same day.

These matter more for screens than most parts, because a fault only shows up once fitted — testing before dispatch and a proper warranty period are what protect you if something's wrong with the unit itself.

Frequently Asked Questions

How much does an iPhone 13 screen replacement cost in the UK? The iPhone 13 Hard OLED screen — the only tier stocked for this model — costs £51.72 as a standalone part.

Is the iPhone 13 Pro screen more expensive than the standard iPhone 13 screen? No — the opposite. The iPhone 13 Pro Hard OLED screen is £43.68, actually the cheapest screen in the whole iPhone 13 family, £8.04 less than the standard iPhone 13's £51.72.

How much is an iPhone 13 Mini screen replacement? £61.47 for the Hard OLED screen, making it the most expensive part in the iPhone 13 range despite being the smallest phone.

How much is an iPhone 13 Pro Max screen replacement? £54.41 for the Soft OLED screen, the only Pro Max tier stocked.

Is there a budget LCD option for the iPhone 13, like there is for the iPhone 11 or 12? No. Every iPhone 13 model shipped from Apple with an OLED display, so there's no LCD version to buy — all the screens above are genuine OLED panels, not an upgrade over a cheaper baseline.

Is it cheaper to replace an iPhone 13 screen myself than pay a repair shop? Generally yes. Buying just the part avoids the labour charge that makes up a large portion of most shop repair quotes. See our DIY guide to check whether it's realistic for you to do yourself.

How to Replace It Yourself: Step-by-Step Guide

Replacing an iPhone 13 screen yourself is achievable in 45–75 minutes with the right tools, a steady hand, and a genuine understanding that this model is more tightly sealed than older iPhones — which changes how you approach the reseal step, not just the teardown. This guide walks through the full process in order: what you need, what to disconnect first (and why the order matters), and the one detail on iPhone 13 specifically that trips up people used to repairing older models. If you'd rather skip the tools and buy the part first, the iPhone 13 OLED screen replacement, £51.72 is Hard OLED and 100% tested before dispatch.

Is the iPhone 13 Screen Difficult to Replace?

Difficulty: Moderate. If you've replaced a phone screen before, this is a manageable job. If it's your first time, it's still doable but budget extra time and expect a slower first pass, particularly on the ribbon cable disconnects, which are small and easy to damage if you're not deliberate. The main things that separate this from a "beginner" repair are Face ID (which means you must keep the original earpiece/sensor assembly intact and transfer it, since Face ID hardware is paired to the logic board and can't simply be swapped from a donor screen) and the tighter factory seal, which means your reseal quality directly affects whether the phone stays water- and dust-resistant afterwards.

Time estimate: 45–75 minutes, including cooldown time after heating the display and time spent on the adhesive reseal.

What Tools Do You Need?

• P2 Pentalobe screwdriver (for the two screws at the bottom of the phone)
• Y000 tri-point screwdriver (for the screws under the display shield plate)
• Suction cup or screen-opening pliers
• Plastic opening picks (avoid metal tools near the battery or display edge)
• Heat gun, iOpener, or a hairdryer on low heat (to soften the factory adhesive)
• Spudger (for disconnecting ribbon cable connectors)
• Tweezers (for small screws and connector alignment)
• Fresh pre-cut adhesive strips sized for iPhone 13 (do not reuse the old adhesive)
• A magnetic screw mat or tray, ideally with a printed layout — the screws are different lengths and mixing them up is the single most common mistake

How to Replace an iPhone 13 Screen: Step-by-Step

1. Power off the phone completely. Don't just lock it — a fully powered-down device removes any risk of a short circuit while you're working near the battery and logic board.

2. Remove the two pentalobe screws at the bottom edge of the phone, next to the charging port, using the P2 screwdriver. Keep them separate from other screws — they're a different size to the ones you'll remove later.

3. Apply gentle heat to the bottom edge and around the perimeter of the screen using a heat gun, iOpener, or hairdryer on low. This softens the factory adhesive so you're not forcing the screen apart, which risks cracking it or bending the frame.

4. Use a suction cup on the lower half of the screen and gently lift to create a small gap, then work a plastic opening pick around the edge to fully separate the adhesive. Go slowly along the bottom and sides — the top edge stays connected by ribbon cables, so don't pull the screen fully away yet.

5. Open the screen like a book, hinging from the top, and rest it carefully to one side. Don't let it hang by the cables.

6. Disconnect the battery FIRST, before touching any display connectors. This is the single most important safety step in the whole process: with the battery still connected, any accidental contact between components while you're working near the display cables risks a short circuit. Locate the battery connector bracket, remove its retaining screw, and lift the connector off with a spudger.

7. Remove the screws holding the display shield plate in place (these are the smaller Y000 tri-point screws) and lift the plate away to expose the display connectors underneath.

8. Disconnect the display ribbon cables, including the smaller secondary cables under the shield plate that are easy to miss if you only look for the main connector. Use the spudger to lift each connector straight up, not sideways, to avoid bending the pins.

9. Lift the old screen away completely once all cables are disconnected.

10. Transfer any parts that stay with your original phone rather than the new screen — on iPhone 13, this typically means the earpiece speaker mesh and small brackets that sit around the sensor housing, depending on what's included with your specific replacement part. Check what's pre-installed on the new screen against what you removed from the old one before reassembling.

11. Connect the new screen's ribbon cables in reverse order — smaller secondary cables first, then the main display connector — and refit the shield plate and its screws.

12. Reconnect the battery and, before closing the phone fully, power it on to test the new screen: check touch response across the full surface, Face ID, and display brightness/colour, while you still have easy access if something needs reseating.

13. Apply fresh adhesive strips around the full perimeter before closing the screen. This step matters more on the iPhone 13 than it did on older iPhones: Apple sealed this generation more tightly against water and dust than the iPhone 11 or 12, and reusing old, stretched adhesive — or skipping fresh strips altogether — is the main reason a technically successful screen swap ends up with a phone that no longer resists everyday splashes the way it used to. Don't treat this as an optional finishing touch.

14. Press the screen firmly into place along all edges to set the new adhesive, then refit the two pentalobe screws at the bottom.

What Should You Test Before Calling the Job Done?

• Touch response across every corner of the screen, not just the centre
• Face ID unlock
• True Tone and auto-brightness behaviour
• Speaker and microphone during a test call
• That the screen sits flush with the frame with no visible gap, which is your visual check that the adhesive has seated properly

Do You Need to Transfer the Face ID Sensor?

No — and this is a common point of confusion. The Face ID sensor array (the TrueDepth camera system) lives in the notch housing on the original phone body, not on the screen itself, so it isn't something you transfer from an old screen to a new one. As long as you don't damage the sensor housing or its ribbon cable during the teardown, Face ID will continue working with a replacement screen fitted. What you may need to transfer, depending on the exact part, is smaller hardware like the earpiece mesh — check your specific listing.

Why Buy From Supreme Phone Parts for This Job

• 100% tested before dispatch — the screen is checked for function before it leaves us, which matters when you're about to spend an hour fitting it.
• 12-month warranty — covers manufacturing defects on the part.
• Same-day UK dispatch — get the part quickly so you're not without a working phone longer than necessary.

The iPhone 13 Hard OLED screen, £51.72 is the exact part this guide is written around. If you're fitting a Mini, Pro, or Pro Max instead, the iPhone 13 Mini screen (£61.47), iPhone 13 Pro screen (£43.68), and iPhone 13 Pro Max screen (£54.41) follow the same process. If you're not confident about the reseal step in particular, the pricing section above also covers what a professional fitting typically runs to, in case you'd rather have someone else do this part of the job.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I replace an iPhone 13 screen myself? Yes, with the right tools and patience. It's a moderate-difficulty repair — manageable for a first-timer, but budget 45–75 minutes and take the ribbon cable disconnects slowly.

What's the most important safety step when replacing an iPhone 13 screen? Disconnect the battery before touching any display connectors. Doing this first prevents accidental short circuits while you're working near exposed contacts.

Do I need to replace the adhesive strips, or can I reuse the old ones? Always use fresh adhesive strips. This matters more on the iPhone 13 than older iPhones because Apple sealed this generation more tightly against water and dust — old, stretched adhesive won't reseal properly and the phone will lose water resistance it previously had.

Will Face ID still work after I replace the screen myself? Yes, provided you don't damage the sensor housing or its ribbon cable during the teardown. The Face ID hardware lives in the phone body, not the screen, so a correctly fitted replacement screen doesn't affect it.

What tools do I need to replace an iPhone 13 screen? A P2 pentalobe screwdriver, a Y000 tri-point screwdriver, a suction cup or opening pliers, plastic picks, a heat source (heat gun, iOpener, or hairdryer), a spudger, tweezers, and fresh adhesive strips.

How long does an iPhone 13 screen replacement take? Around 45–75 minutes for most people, including heating time to soften the adhesive and the final resealing step — longer if it's your first time.

Which Screen Quality Should You Choose?

Every replacement screen available for the iPhone 13 range is OLED — there's no LCD tier to weigh up here, unlike the iPhone 11 or 12. The real decision for this generation is between Hard OLED and Soft OLED, two different OLED panel constructions, and which one you get depends on which model you own: the standard iPhone 13, iPhone 13 Mini and iPhone 13 Pro currently ship as Hard OLED, while the iPhone 13 Pro Max ships as Soft OLED. Neither is a "downgrade" to LCD-level quality — both are genuine OLED panels with true blacks and per-pixel dimming. This guide explains what the hard/soft distinction actually means, what's marketing noise versus a real difference, and gives you the decision criteria that matter for a same-day drop-in repair.

What's the Difference Between Hard OLED and Soft OLED?

The terms describe the physical substrate the OLED panel is built on — the layer beneath the display's pixels.

Soft OLED uses a flexible plastic (polyimide) substrate. This is the construction Apple uses in its own iPhone displays, which is why Soft OLED replacement panels are generally considered closer to original factory spec. The flexible substrate allows for a thinner panel, better contouring at the edges, and — in well-made units — more uniform colour and brightness across the screen.

Hard OLED uses a more rigid substrate. It's still a genuine OLED panel with the same core display technology (true blacks, self-lit pixels, no backlight bleed), but the rigid backing makes it a more cost-effective panel to produce, which is reflected in the price. "Rigid" here refers to the substrate material, not the toughness or drop-resistance of the finished screen — a Hard OLED panel isn't more fragile in daily use because of this.

Neither term has anything to do with LCD. Some guides for older iPhone generations (11 and 12) talk about LCD vs OLED as the main choice, because those ranges have a genuine budget LCD tier. The iPhone 13 doesn't — everything stocked for this generation is OLED, so the hard/soft distinction is the actual comparison that matters here.

Which Grade Does Each iPhone 13 Model Use?

Worth being straightforward about: the Pro Max being the only Soft OLED in the range isn't a reflection of it being the "best" phone in the line-up — it's simply the panel grade currently stocked for that model. The standard 13 Pro, despite the "Pro" name, currently ships as Hard OLED, the same grade as the base iPhone 13 and Mini.

Is Soft OLED Actually Better, or Is That Marketing?

It's a genuine, real difference — not invented marketing — but whether it matters to you depends on what you're optimising for.

Where Soft OLED has a real edge: closer match to Apple's original factory panel construction, marginally better flexibility (relevant mainly during fitting, less so once installed), and in good-quality units, tighter colour and brightness uniformity edge-to-edge.

Where the difference is smaller than you'd expect in daily use: both grades produce true blacks and strong contrast because both are OLED. Screen brightness, touch responsiveness, and Face ID function are not determined by hard vs soft substrate — they depend more on the overall build quality of the specific panel and its driver IC, which varies by supplier regardless of substrate type. If someone tells you a Hard OLED panel is a big downgrade because it's "not real OLED," that's the marketing noise to be sceptical of — it's still OLED.

What Actually Matters for a Same-Day Drop-In Repair?

If you're fitting the screen yourself or paying for a quick turnaround repair, prioritise in this order:

1. Fit accuracy for your exact model — a screen listed specifically for your iPhone 13 variant, not a generic "iPhone 13-series" part that may not account for minor connector or bracket differences between the 13, Mini, Pro and Pro Max.
2. Pre-dispatch testing — a screen that's been function-tested before it ships catches dead-on-arrival units before they cost you a wasted fitting attempt, which matters far more day-to-day than which substrate the panel uses.
3. Warranty cover — protects you if a fault only shows up after fitting, which is common with any display component regardless of grade.
4. Panel grade (Hard vs Soft OLED) — a real factor, but for most users it's a secondary consideration behind the three above, since both grades are genuine OLED and both will restore full function to the phone.

Do I Need to Match the Exact Original Grade?

Not strictly, in terms of function — but it's worth knowing what you're buying. If your iPhone 13 Pro Max originally had a Soft OLED display from Apple and you fit a Hard OLED replacement (where available on the market generally, not necessarily from us), you'd get a fully working screen with a construction that differs slightly from the factory original. For the models where we currently only stock one grade — 13, 13 Mini, and 13 Pro all Hard OLED, Pro Max Soft OLED — there isn't a choice to make from us either way; the listing you'll find is the grade currently available for that model.

Why Buy From Supreme Phone Parts

• 100% tested before dispatch — every screen, Hard or Soft OLED, is checked for function before it leaves us.
• 12-month warranty — covers manufacturing defects on the part, regardless of grade.
• Same-day UK dispatch — orders placed within the cut-off go out the same day.

If you're still weighing up cost against fitting it yourself, the pricing table above covers full family pricing, and the step-by-step guide on this page walks through the fitting process in detail, including the resealing step that matters more on iPhone 13 than older models.

Frequently Asked Questions

Is Hard OLED worse than Soft OLED for an iPhone 13 screen? Not in a way that affects core function — both are genuine OLED panels with true blacks and self-lit pixels. Soft OLED uses a flexible substrate closer to Apple's original construction and can offer marginally better colour/brightness uniformity; Hard OLED uses a more rigid, more cost-effective substrate but is not a downgrade to LCD-level quality.

Does the iPhone 13 have a budget LCD screen option like the iPhone 11 or 12? No. Every iPhone 13 model shipped from Apple with an OLED display, so there is no LCD tier for this generation — all screens stocked are genuine OLED, either Hard or Soft.

Which iPhone 13 models use Hard OLED, and which use Soft OLED? The standard iPhone 13, iPhone 13 Mini, and iPhone 13 Pro currently ship as Hard OLED. The iPhone 13 Pro Max ships as Soft OLED.

Will touch response or Face ID be worse with a Hard OLED screen? No. Touch response and Face ID function are not determined by the hard vs soft substrate — they depend on the overall build quality of the specific panel and driver IC, which is consistent across both grades when properly tested before dispatch.

Is Soft OLED worth paying more for? It depends what you're optimising for. If you want the closest match to Apple's original panel construction, Soft OLED is the better match. For most buyers doing a same-day drop-in repair, fit accuracy, pre-dispatch testing, and warranty cover matter more day-to-day than panel substrate.

Can I choose between Hard OLED and Soft OLED for my iPhone 13 model? Not currently — each model in the range is stocked in one grade: Hard OLED for the 13, 13 Mini and 13 Pro, and Soft OLED for the 13 Pro Max. There's no dual-tier choice for any single model right now.